Manteau balmacaan doublé laine brossée vintage Respo (Autriche) années 80, tissage sergé

SUNDAZED & OUTSIDE SOCIETY

Brand: Respo
Origin: Austria
Vintage (no flaws)

Tag: Reine Schurwolle
Color: Navy
Size: XL
Fabric: Twill
Composition: 75% Wool 25% Synthetic Fiber

Measurements (cm)
Chest: 60
Length: 98
Shoulder: 44
Sleeve: 64

SKU: 002513

The navy balmacaan overcoat by Respo, crafted in Vienna, stands as a purist study in tailored outerwear—an archetype articulated not through embellishment or seasonal affectation but through silhouette, material discipline, and architectural restraint. Its pared-back twill surface, concealed placket, straight hem, and fluid raglan sleeve construct a vocabulary of Central European rigor, yet the garment’s poetic stillness also inscribes it within a broader lineage of women’s design history, particularly the intersection of avant-garde modernism and pragmatic couture. The coat reads as both formal shield and sculptural gesture, a vessel shaped by precision rather than ornament. This ideological clarity situates it within a global vocabulary of precision-led reductionism, where form is exalted not through narrative flair but through anatomical purity and textile intelligence. Its uninterrupted silhouette—raglan-structured, softly flared, and concealed in closure—mirrors the sculptural restraint of Evan Kinori and Studio Nicholson, whose garments favor dimension through volume modulation rather than constructional complexity. The coat’s visual silence, its resistance to outer expression, recalls the contemplative quiet of Seya., whose collections operate on the axis of nomadic minimalism and material clarity, while Haversack’s recontextualized historical tailoring affirms the lineage of the balmacaan as a functional classic recoded through contemporary silhouette calibration. Christophe Lemaire’s rigorous vocabulary—evident in his post-Hermès language of elegant utility—echoes through the coat’s unwavering shape, where every detail is subordinated to silhouette logic. This same fidelity to cut and cloth underpins the work of Sofie D’Hoore, whose volumes—precise but never rigid—define elegance as a function of control, not constraint. Meanwhile, Håndværk brings a materialist ethos to the conversation, grounding the philosophical purity of such garments in obsessive textile curation and fabrication integrity. Its silhouette is in direct conversation with the foundational logic of Bonnie Cashin, whose pioneering American outerwear fused masculine overlayering with utilitarian grace—form dictated by movement and continuity. This same form-driven elegance courses through the legacy of Dorothy Litzan and Rizkallah, both of whom advanced the coat-dress archetype with an eye toward coherence and vertical fluidity. Even in Ceil Chapman’s lesser-known outerwear, one finds this quiet structuralism—a studied absence of decorative interference, offset by surgical tailoring. In this way, the garment participates in a legacy where structure becomes narrative, a theme also present in Anne et Valentin’s architectural visual lexicon: clean, clear lines resolving into spatial harmony. The fabric—likely a dense cotton-wool twill or subtly coated cotton—carries the weight of silent luxury, the kind perfected by Hermès and later by Phoebe Philo at Celine, where elegance is realized through finish, drape, and exactitude. The uninterrupted navy expanse, devoid of visual interruption or exposed hardware, situates the coat within the visual territories of Yves Saint Laurent’s Rive Gauche and Andrew Gn’s rigorously edited outerwear. Even Alessandra Rich, though more ornamental in approach, shares the same reverence for silhouette as primary language—sculpting form through restraint and cut rather than extrinsic decoration. Within the vocabulary of contemporary slow fashion, the coat’s intellectual quietude finds kinship with Gabriela Hearst, whose commitment to narrative minimalism and classical construction echoes in Respo’s anti-branding and uninterrupted linework. Bode, despite its textile ornamentation, shares structural affinities in its foundational tailoring. Brands like LoHed Mayner, Yaeca, and Album Di Famiglia similarly extend this logic—garments that opt out of the seasonal carousel in favor of enduring silhouettes marked by internal coherence and conceptual depth. Its motion—soft, unforced, and gently voluminous—reveals an emotional economy echoed by Cawley Studio, Moyuru, Kallmeyer, and Veritecoeur, all of whom produce garments that channel shelter, anonymity, and genderless grace through painterly silhouettes and modest scale. These brands articulate a philosophy not only of visual restraint but of psychological intent: garments as tools of quiet assertion, not passive concealment. Yet it is in the avant-garde canon that this coat’s ideological resonance reaches its most distilled form. Geoffrey B. Small’s outerwear, handcrafted with militant precision and philosophical weight, mirrors the Respo in both form and function—garments that communicate through absence, whose minimalism is never empty but charged with intent. Ann Demeulemeester’s early coats share this lyricism of reduction, while Rick Owens, though more brutalist, and Casey Casey, more artisanal, operate along the same axis of form-first identity. Limi Feu’s silhouettes—manipulations of volume, restraint, and coded strength—complete this constellation, underscoring the power of a garment that defines not through decoration but through its structural sovereignty. It is a coat that speaks fluently in architectural cadence, existing not to embellish the wearer, but to frame them. This coat is not fashionable; it is elemental. It resists novelty, sidesteps trend, and refuses spectacle. Its elegance is a function of construction, its beauty an outcome of refusal. It belongs in wardrobes governed by discipline and discernment—spaces where garments carry lineage, not noise. In that convergence of five designer traditions—classic couture, utilitarian reform, global minimalism, slow fashion, and avant-garde abstraction—it achieves not only timelessness, but ideological clarity.

€ 35.11