torsten ALBERTSSON (Suède) années 70, peau d'agneau, double boutonnage

SUNDAZED & OUTSIDE SOCIETY

...The Torsten Albertsson full-length double-breasted leather trench coat exemplifies Scandinavian craftsmanship, blending timeless elegance, functionality, and modern design sensibilities. Rooted in the leathercraft heritage of Malung, Sweden, this coat reflects Albertsson’s dedication to high-quality materials and meticulous construction. Malung’s reputation as a hub for leather goods underscores the authenticity and durability of this garment, while its design integrates Scandinavian minimalism with classic trench coat elements, creating a luxurious yet utilitarian outerwear piece. Crafted from genuine leather, likely full-grain calfskin, the coat boasts a smooth texture and slight sheen, enhancing its aesthetic and tactile appeal. The bold green color offers a modern twist on traditional trench coat hues, marking it as a statement piece. Treated for water resistance and durability, the leather is complemented by a lightweight polyester or satin lining in a matching green shade, ensuring comfort and ease of wear. A partial quilted section in the lining likely provides additional warmth and structure, aligning with the coat’s design for cooler climates. The trench coat features a tailored silhouette, falling below the knee. Its structured shoulders, wide notched lapels, and slightly fitted waist create a commanding presence, further emphasized by the double-breasted front closure with six medium-sized buttons symmetrically arranged. The belt, secured by reinforced loops, cinches the waist for a refined fit, while the straight-cut hemline and flared hem offer both coverage and movement. Two angled welt pockets at the hips add functionality, seamlessly integrated into the coat’s design, with reinforced edges to prevent stretching. The construction of the garment showcases exceptional leatherwork, with precision-cut panels stitched together using reinforced seams. Double-needle topstitching ensures durability at stress points, such as the lapels, seams, and pocket edges, while raw leather edges are folded inward and topstitched for a clean and professional finish. The center-back seam and vertical princess seams allow for precise shaping, while the side panels subtly curve into the waist, enhancing the tailored silhouette. The oversized lapel collar, with reinforced edges and topstitching, sits elegantly whether worn open or closed, adding a touch of sophistication to the coat’s utilitarian roots. The garment’s closure system combines a central double-breasted button configuration with a self-fabric belt, offering both functionality and aesthetic balance. The buttons, likely made from durable resin or dyed horn, are securely fastened with double-thread stitching, matching the coat’s bold green hue. The concealed waist belt provides adjustability, ensuring the wearer achieves a flattering fit. Set-in sleeves with slightly tapered cuffs allow for layering, while the generous armhole construction enhances mobility. The coat’s inspiration draws heavily from mid-20th-century trench coats, reinterpreted through Swedish craftsmanship. The double-breasted cut and tailored silhouette nod to the military origins of trench coats, originally designed during World War I for functionality and protection. This heritage is modernized through the use of high-quality leather, the bold green color, and precise detailing, making the garment relevant in both high-end and contemporary fashion markets. Notable producers associated with leathers of this quality include Horween Leather Company (USA), renowned for their Chromexcel leathers, and Peccary Leather (Germany), known for their fine-grain finishes. Connolly Leather (UK), historically used in luxury automotive and fashion goods, aligns with the coat’s premium-grade aesthetic, while Schott NYC offers comparable craftsmanship in leather outerwear. These associations reinforce the coat’s luxurious and durable construction. Historically, trench coats gained popularity for their practicality and structured design, transitioning into fashion staples post-World War I. Albertsson’s reinterpretation integrates this heritage with Scandinavian minimalism, balancing tradition with innovation. The choice of green leather, a departure from standard black or brown, reflects a desire to cater to a niche market valuing individuality, exclusivity, and high-quality craftsmanship. In terms of sustainability and longevity, the use of genuine leather and meticulous construction ensures that this coat will remain a timeless piece. Its durability aligns with current fashion trends emphasizing investment in high-quality garments over fast fashion. The tailored silhouette, versatile design, and luxurious materials make it a standout choice for discerning consumers seeking both style and practicality. In conclusion, the Torsten Albertsson leather trench coat is a masterfully crafted garment that bridges utility and high fashion. Its durable leather, precise construction, and thoughtful details, such as the double-breasted closure, tailored fit, and bold color, position it as a statement piece in both vintage and contemporary markets. Combining Scandinavian design sensibilities with a nod to classic trench coat traditions, this coat ensures enduring appeal, making it a timeless addition to any wardrobe.

Constructed in a double-breasted configuration with a sharply contoured lapel roll and a fully paneled body extending from shoulder to hem, the coat relies not on external cinching mechanisms but on internal shaping to achieve its anatomical taper—an assertion of leather not as ornamental surface but as a primary architectural medium. Here, lambskin assumes the role of spatial agent—capable of both contour and containment, tension and release—echoing Jitrois’s conceptual framework of leather as a second skin: material with memory, density, and sculptural intelligence. The garment’s martial inflections—the double-breasted stance, the clean, knife-edged lapel, the symmetry of the upper structure—are neither theatrical nor rigid. They are methodically restrained, enabling a silhouette that communicates authority without aggression. This refinement of the military vernacular is shared by contemporary designers such as Peter Do and Rokh, both of whom reframe uniform tropes through a female-centric grammar of proportion, cut, and control. Within this lineage, the coat does not perform minimalism so much as it enacts discipline: a vertical composition uninterrupted by decorative noise, its severity tempered by the tactile softness of the lambskin, whose pliant texture delivers a kind of material emotionality—neither cold nor ornamental, but psychologically weighted. This structural approach mirrors the leather philosophies of Jacquemus and Nanushka, where fabrication is not symbolic of rebellion or rawness, but a medium for sensual pragmatism and psychological resonance. The coat’s silhouette—assertive yet restrained—situates it within a lineage of outerwear defined by clarity and authority rather than ostentation. The spatial gravitas aligns with the heritage logic of Max Mara and Giuliva Heritage, whose tailored outerwear renders presence as civic architecture—public, resolved, and quietly commanding. The precision of the lapel, simultaneously wide and sharp, evokes Azzedine Alaïa’s 1980s coats, wherein the female body was neither exposed nor armored but delineated with surgical exactitude. The same conceptual tension—contour as containment rather than display—is central to the design philosophies of Roland Mouret and Daniel Lee’s tenure at Bottega Veneta, where architectural outerwear emerged as ecclesiastical in restraint and sensual in discipline. Technically, the trench reveals couture-grade craftsmanship. The absence of overt topstitching maintains the lambskin’s surface integrity; a system of internal darting beneath the bust introduces curvature without distorting the vertical flow; and sculpted set-in sleeves offer mobility without volumetric compromise. These operations recall the constructional philosophies of Iris van Herpen—not in their visual futurism, but in their unwavering commitment to structure as a garment’s organizing principle. Even at full length, the coat avoids theatrical excess, echoing the pragmatic sensuality of Bonnie Cashin, whose outerwear redefined utility by prioritizing bodily autonomy over decorative encumbrance. Its silhouette occupies a space beyond bourgeois and bohemian, conjuring the classical symmetry and spatial clarity seen in Gianfranco Ferré’s sculptural tailoring. Within a contemporary context, the coat’s tonal restraint and material silence place it in formal dialogue with outerwear from Loewe and Rodarte, both of whom favor structural expression over decorative emphasis. Its design language—eschewing gloss, hardware, or visual clutter—reflects the compositional economy of Narciso Rodriguez and Giuliva, where sensuality is not theatrical but precisely engineered. As a garment, it speaks to a specific moment in French postwar fashion history when the trench was reconstituted—not as masculine inheritance, but as a newly autonomous mode of feminine sartorial authorship. No longer a direct quotation of military dress, it became a civilian structure of projection and control, a container for elegance that rested not on softness but on the authority of cut, density, and drape. This psychological utility—where garments assert presence without reliance on spectacle—is central to the work of Emanuel Ungaro, Stella McCartney, and Hussein Chalayan. Each designer constructs volumes not merely to clothe the body, but to speak from it—to externalize interiority through form. This trench, too, functions as a vessel of presence: measured, calibrated, and exacting in its language. It refuses both nostalgia and irony. Its power lies in structural authorship and material clarity, not in stylistic quotation. Like the enduring clarity of Ines de la Fressange’s design ethos, this coat renders French classicism contemporary through disciplined continuation rather than radical reinvention. It is a post-nostalgic artifact—memory-bound without mimicry, precise without rigidity. Its tailoring philosophy underscores that in true leather construction, permanence—not novelty—dictates relevance. Far from being a static historical relic, the Créations Les Gets x Fourrures Camp trench operates as a durational garment: an enduring proposition in silhouette engineering, composed not for spectacle but for sustained relevance. The double-breasted closure, concealed fastening logic, and uninterrupted paneling are all decisions rooted in spatial logic, not stylistic affectation. In this way, its design principles converge with the outerwear philosophies of The Row and Gabriela Hearst, where form is not styled but composed, and garments are not adorned but built. These are silhouettes that carry gravity, not simply weight—compositions that stabilize presence rather than amplify it. The coat’s handling of volume, its soft containment and assertive stillness, finds direct resonance in the work of Christophe Lemaire and Y’s by Yohji Yamamoto, both of whom treat form not as decoration but as an instrument of spatial clarity. The trench’s leather is not expressive by ornamentation, but by its ability to hold memory, drape, and spatial direction simultaneously—a silent architecture with expressive depth. The garment’s visual silence—its muted buttons, concealed closure system, and tonal chromaticity—evokes the compositional clarity of BITE Studios and Bevza, where restraint is not minimalism but reduction as articulation. The sculpting at the bust, the taper at the waist, the cupping of the shoulders—all are executed with sensual restraint, not corseted emphasis. This echoes the emotional formalism practiced by Rejina Pyo and Plan C, whose outerwear elevates intimacy through precision, and quietude through structure. Its hemline, long and trailing without ostentation, mirrors the spatial ease championed by JW Anderson and Anna October, whose silhouettes unfold around the body rather than command it. Movement, in this garment, is structured—not surrendered—and elegance is carried in the calibration of drape, not in the theater of gesture. The lambskin’s tonal depth and natural patination suggest a material ethic of care, consistent with the tactile transparency found in the practices of Medea and Béhen, where materiality is allowed to index time rather than obscure it. In this philosophy, leather becomes an archive—not of trend cycles, but of sustained use and enduring presence. The coat does not simply evoke the past; it sustains it. Like the finest work from The Row or Gabriela Hearst, it constructs continuity not through retrospection, but through precision. Its authority derives not from novelty, but from its fidelity to proportion, material, and function. As a garment, it is sovereign within the field of functional couture: memory-imbued, exactingly composed, and eternally contemporary.

Measurements (cm)

Chest: 45

Length: 112

Shoulder: 40

Sleeve: 57

SKU: 004869

€ 74.13